17th September 2023

 

Dear All,

Georgia was an exciting adventure and probably not for the faint hearted, I say this because of the travel and energy needed to explore it properly. Travelling involved a change in Istanbul as there are currently no direct flights and we both arrived and departed in the middle of the night. Coming back yesterday we left at 1.30 am their time, took a taxi to Tbilisi airport, a 2-hour flight to Turkey, a 4-hour flight to Stanstead where the Cambridge train was replaced by a bus service, caught the guided bus to Swavesey and walked with our luggage up the hill to Over – 15 hours from door to door. Exploring involved a deal of walking as we had foot tours of Tbilisi, Kutaisi and Batumi as well as three decent hikes in the high Caucasus mountains. Nevertheless, it was very enjoyable, probably increased by the fact that we had not had a holiday abroad since before Covid.

We travelled with Intrepid who use local transport and try and support social enterprises in the countries they visit. We had an excellent guide in Ani and a group of just 9: 5 Brits, 2 Canadians and 2 Germans all of whom were good company and added to the enjoyment of the holiday.

Tbilisi is an attractive capital with a mixture of architecture as it has changed hands several times in history. We arrived a day early and explored by ourselves on the first day taking in the Opera House, river, the theatre, blue monastery and the National Gallery. The following day we had a guided tour including Freedom Square, the old city walls, the Puppet theatre, President’s palace, new bridge, castle and hot sulphur springs. After we visited the Botanic gardens on our own and climbed to the top of the cable car with expansive views of the city and took in the National Museum.

There was plenty of evidence of anti-Russian feeling with slogans daubed on many buildings.

 

 

Opera House

 

 

Evidence that Ben passed this way?

 

 

View from top of the Cable car with new bridge

 

 

Theatre

 

Next day – Friday we were up early to catch the train to Kutaisi, once the capital and Mafia centre of Georgia. The train was rather ancient and there was no platform at Kutaisi which meant scrambling across the railway lines when we alighted. We had a traditional lunch of Khinkali dumplings then a tour round the market, fountains, historic wall and cathedral.

 

 

Khinkali dumplings

 

 

Market

 

 

Historic Wall

 

 

The Bagrat Cathedral

 

On Saturday we were up early for a 7-hour minibus ride up into the Caucasus Mountains. It was an interesting ride of hair pin bends and sheer drops at one stage interrupted by an horrendous downpour. Our destination was Mestia a village at 4,500ft so higher than Ben Nevis. It was surrounded by snow covered mountains and home of the Svan people who have the reputation of proud independence and toughness who used to rob visitors but now act as guides!

The next day we were driven to the next village of Lakiri and left for a spectacular walk back to Mestia through Alpine meadows surrounded by snowcapped mountains – a great experience. We spotted an eagle and numerous swallows. After lunch we walked to the cable car and it took us up to the snow line for more mountain views, A feature of the Svan villages are Tower Houses built 3 stories high in the Middle Ages for defence against neighbouring tribes. In the evening we were given a cheese making demonstration and we all had a go.

 

 

Near Lakiri

 

Hilary & Tenzing

 

 

 

High Caucasus Mountains

 

 

Mestia Tower Houses

 

 

Caucasus from the top of the Cable Car

 

The following day we were driven to an even more remote village called Ushguli – another interesting drive with serious drops and gullies. This has claims for being the highest permanently inhabited settlement in Europe at 6,600 ft. It is stunningly beautiful with small clusters of ancient tower houses huddled together in alpine meadows. Cows and pigs wander down the streets over looked by the highest peak in the country. Our first hike was the steep assent to Queen Tamar’s tower which made me puff! Then down to an ancient church called Lamaria built in the 9^th century. On the way we were introduced to a giant Caucasus Mountain sheep dog which was about the size of a bear and witnessed a spectacular dog fight between two very large specimens. Dogs are everywhere in Georgia and in the cities feral dogs are injected and ear tagged,

The next day – Tuesday we did a long hike up the Shkhara valley to the Shkhara glacier, 20 Km in all. The flattish section up the river valley was OK but the last couple of miles were uphill over some rock so not easy going. In the evening we returned to Mestia.

 

 

Ascent to Queen Tamar’s Tower

 

 

Ushguli

 

 

Caucasus Mountain Sheepdog

 

 

Shkhara Valley

 

 

Rocky approach to Glacier

 

 

Shkhara Glacier

 

From Mestia it was a 6-hour minibus journey to the Black Sea resort of Batumi. This was an old trading colony but when the Russians arrived it underwent rapid development as it had a natural deep harbour. Since 2009 it has undergone another building boom turning Batumi into the Las Vagas of the Black Sea. The architecture is glitzy bordering on kitsch especially along the sea front. We had a free afternoon when we arrived and after a beer on the beach walked the length of the Boulevard to the harbour. It actually has some excellent parks and fountains in amidst the new buildings. We were given a guided tour next morning then had a free afternoon which spent exploring the vast Botanic gardens which were more like an arboretum set on a steep hillside.

 

 

Marriott Hotel

 

 

Palm Tree

 

 

The Alphabet Tower

 

 

Black Sea Beach

 

 

The Alliance Palace

 

 

Batumi Botanic Gardens

We returned to Tbilisi on Friday on a much smarter train and had an end of holiday meal in a modern Georgian restaurant with no paper menus – everything read off of a QR code square by your mobile phone – us oldies will starve before long!

All in all, a very interesting country and an excellent holiday. I actually took 537 photos but have whittled then down to a mere 340 soon to be available on application!

Love

 

Mike & Kate