Sunday, 26 May 2019


26th May 2019

Dear All,
We must have seen Dartmoor at its best: wall to wall sunshine, scenery, flora, especially bluebells, good hotel and good company.
First a photo from Romania sent by a fellow traveller which captures the ambience of the high alpine meadows!



On the way to Dartmoor we were pleased to call in on Ali and Robin. They have a fantastic situation among hills and narrow lanes and have successfully cleared most of the jungle and made the house and workshops useable but still have plenty of work to do.



On Dartmoor we were staying at Ilsington not far from Bovey Tracey, as usual, Philip had chosen a hotel at the opposite end of cheap and nasty on the status spectrum! but he had negotiated a discount. After leaving Ali and Robin we travelled to Princetown to recce a walk that we were due to lead on Tuesday. It was as well that we did as there were a couple of tricky sections and the pub Philip had booked for lunch claimed not to have heard of us! Recceing by car involved some extremely narrow lanes and at one stage I had to reverse100 yards (not very well) with both wing mirrors touching the sides!


Ilsington Country House Hotel
Our first days walk started locally at Haytor visitor centre and took in Hound Tor, Honey Bag Tor, Crinkwell Tor, Bell Tor and a conducted tour of Widecombe. One of the main features was the amazing spread of bluebells in open hillsides and on top of walls – we are only used to seeing bluebells in woods.


Bluebells on Bonehill Downs


Widecombe from Chinkwell Tor
On Tuesday we led from Princetown via Ingra Tor, Eggworthy, Withill, Merryvale and back across rough moor with stone circles and stone rows. The pub at Merryvale had reluctantly agreed to serve us as long as we all ordered pasties as the landlord had a hospital appointment. He had called in a faithful helper who resembled Mrs Overall from Victoria Wood programmes and proceeded to act in character!

Dartmoor Merryvale Pub


Wednesday saw us at Dartmeet beginning with a scramble up a steep hill and taking in stepping stones – which were a little daunting for the elderly (most of our group!), clapper bridges and forest. Our leader on this day heavily relied on a hand held electronic device which never seemed to match the real topography so we spent a deal of time wondering where we were and eventually endured an unscheduled 2 mile walk down a narrow busy road.


Apprehension at  Stepping Stones


Mike on Clapper bridge
Finally on Thursday we headed for Chagford and walked along the River Teign to Castle Drogo and Fingle Bridge. The castle is undergoing extensive renovations to make it waterproof and replacing over 900 windows.

River Teign


Fingles Bridge Inn
The drive back on Friday was fairly uneventful but we managed over 700 miles in the week – which is plenty.
Ben was on a Sushi course yesterday and appears to have mastered presentation quite well.


Sushi for several!
We look forward to meeting up with the (elderly) cousins at Brentwood on Tuesday.
Love
Mike & Kate

Sunday, 12 May 2019


12th May 2019

Dear All,
Transylvania exceeded our expectations. The scenery was alpine – like Switzerland without the expense or regimentation, the weather varied with sunshine, rain and 6” snow one day, the hotel was family run and comfortable and the leader excellent – and we saw bears in the wild.
We flew to Bucharest and transferred to Magura near Brasov in a small coach arriving close to midnight on Saturday. On Sunday we did a local walk round nearby villages in clear weather taking in a bat cave.


Magura





Our Hotel & Carpathian Mountains
On Monday we walked downhill to pick up horse drawn carts for a 45 minute journey up the Barza valley, then a steep climb up to a small hermitage with only 3 monks and a spectacular view. In the evening we visited a hide in the forest to watch wild bears. It was raining and cold but at least 6 female bears showed up some together with cubs. The numbers are vague because it was difficult to be sure whether some were repeats. In addition we saw a lesser spotted eagle and on the return journey we several deer and a wild boar.


Wild Bears
Tuesday was our longest walk 20 km up to Alpine grazing meadows. However it began to snow heavily and eventually there was a 6” covering and it was rather chilly! For lunch we sheltered in an empty shepherds hut but it was the coldest meal I have enjoyed for some time! It did make the scenery very attractive.



Lunch Hut


Magura

Next day we were driven to Pestavaral Mountain intending to take the cable car up to the top and walk down to Brasov, however the cable car was not running due to high winds at the top so we walked some of the way up the mountain then down to Brasov as planned. Again half the walk was in snow. Brasov is a very attractive town with a heavy German Saxon influence. We spent some time exploring the town then were driven to a fishing lake to view birds. We saw some that we do not have here including Pigmy Cormorants, Whiskered Terns and Night Herons but it was too cold to enjoy the experience.



Brasov Town Hall


Brasov Black Church


Brasov Fortifications

On Thursday we started at Bran castle famous for Vlad the Impaler and the Dracula story. It was an interesting structure with a commanding position. We then went back to Brasov for a conducted tour of the Black Church, lunch then free time in which we explored the vegetable market, synagogue and Rope Street, the narrowest street in the country. We finished at another castle at Rastov which is mainly ruined but with spectacular views of the Carpathian Mountains.


Bran Castle


Carpathian Mountains

Friday started at the Bear Sanctuary for animals that had been mis-treated as pets or performers. They currently have 99 inmate bears as well as a few wolves and deer. We then walked to Vulcan, an old Saxon village where the fortified Lutheran church caters for hikers with coffee and cake.


Bear Sactuary


Our Group

It was an early start yesterday 6.30 breakfast (4.30 our time), 3 hour drive to Bucharest, 3hour flight, underground Heathrow to Kings Cross, Train to Cambridge, Guided bus to Swavesey and a walk up the hill to Over.
Love
Mike & Kate